Ermanno Scervino is obsessed with beauty. He celebrates it relentlessly,
whatever the status quo, wherever the vogues du moment wander. There are no
formulas but a quest for the most exquisite workmanship, which is an expression
of beauty itself, and a proclivity for contrasts that crate new harmonies each
time. Because beauty is certainly an absolute idea, which however evolves in
relation to the times.
The beauty that Scervino celebrates is from here, from now: it is rooted in the
present, without nostalgia. This season it stems from the dialogue between the
rarefaction and the preciousness of couture and the world of sport. From the
clash of these two apparent opposites, as well as from the always lively
comparison between the forms of the masculine and the feminine, a vision arises
that speaks of the progressive breaking down of barriers and protocols and a
celebration of what the hand can to do by transforming materials and molding
them on the feminine body.
A body that this season stands out on high heels or on the massive soles of softly
martial boots, wrapped in leather sheath dresses, short dresses in velvet or lace,
protected by large coats, down jackets, enveloping shearling jackets swarming
gleams of chenille embroideries that create tactile effects. Double-breasted
velvet suits draw graphic silhouettes that become voluptuous in the long dresses
sparkling with sequins, in the leather petticoats. The tension of opposites is
reiterated as an unmistakable style signature: lace is carved into the leather,
bustiers and brassieres are worn with masculine suits, impalpable dresses under
oversized parkas. Silks, laces, wools, leathers blend together giving the dialogue
of opposites a consistency that is enhanced by the palette of neutrals, blacks
and whites accented with bright tones of periwinkle, turquoise, green, pink.
The result is an idea of beauty full of harmonic tensions.